The government has granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for the gharchola, a traditional sari worn during weddings.

What is Gharchola?

• Originating from the Khambhat (Cambay) region of Gujarat, Gharcholas have been used for years in Gujarati weddings. Khambhat was a very popular port and centre of trade in India, till about the 16th century. Merchants from all over the world visited this important trading centre that was also famous for silk manufacturing. The weaving of Gharcholas is traced back to this port city.

• Gharcholas are traditionally used as wedding sarees. It has been a significant outfit in weddings, especially in North India. 

• The name “Gharchola” means “Outfit for Home”, which symbolises a newly wedded bride joining her new home. This variety of silk sarees has earned much popularity among the people from other regions of this country as well.

• Gharchola (also known as Ghatchola and Gharcholu) is woven on cotton or silk fabric in large checks using silk and zari threads. Bandhani work is then done on them or they are block-printed. These sarees are famous for the refined technique of weaving that is used. 

• The making of a Gharchola is an intricate and a time-consuming process. The weaver needs about a week’s time to arrange the looms ready for weaving and go ahead with the designing process. It takes about three days for a plain body weave. If a check pattern is to be made then it takes about a week.

• The most popular variety of these Gharchola sarees comes in a combination of red and white or red and green. Other than these, a Gharchola saree with 12 squares is known as ‘Bar Bagh’, while the one with 52 squares is known as ‘Bavan Bagh’. 

• Motifs like elephants, parrots, flowers and dancing girls are generally found in each compartment. Designs of peacocks, lotus, human figures, floral patterns are some of the most commonly used ones.

Benefits of GI tag

• A Geographical Indication (GI) tag is used for an agricultural, natural, or a manufactured product (handicraft and industrial goods) originating from a definite geographical territory. Typically, such a name conveys an assurance of quality and distinctiveness, which is essentially attributable to the place of its origin.

• The GI tag helps producers get the premium price of the product as no other producer can misuse the name to market similar goods.

• Darjeeling tea, Tirupati laddu, Kangra paintings, Nagpur orange, and Kashmir Pashmina are among the registered GIs in India.

• The other benefits of GI registration include legal protection to that item, prevention against unauthorised use by others, and promoting exports.

• There is a proper process of registration of GI products which includes filing of application, preliminary scrutiny and examination, show cause notice, publication in the geographical indications journal, opposition to registration, and registration.

• It is a legal right under which the GI holder can prohibit others from using the same name.

• Geographical Indications Registry is a statutory organisation setup for the administration of the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999 which came into force on September 15, 2003.

• Under Articles 1(2) and 10 of the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property, geographical indications are covered as an element of Intellectual Property Rights. 

• They are also covered under Articles 22 to 24 of the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) Agreement, which was part of the agreements concluding the Uruguay Round of GATT negotiations.

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